Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
